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03 June 2011 @ 05:35 pm
There are numerous low-quality scans of sewing mooks floating around on the internet, but our goal is to collect as many high-quality scans as we possibly can, and we are primarily focused on scans of pattern sheets and pattern pieces. In light of this goal, we ask that you keep the following guidelines in mind when scanning and uploading.

- Scan all pages at a minimum of 150 dpi (~1200px wide). We hope to eventually create translations of these patterns, and it is difficult-if not impossible- to do so when working with low-quality scans. If you can scan at a higher resolution, we encourage you to do so. When submitting scans, state the dpi so instructions can be provided for enlarging.

- There is no need to rotate or crop your images. We are more than happy to take care of this for you. We will provide credit to all uploaders in entries and file names; however, if you would like the pages to be watermarked you will have to add the watermark yourself.

- When scanning pattern sheets, we prefer that you scan them piecemeal (Just fit as much as you can on the scanner at once before moving on to the next piece). Most people don't have large-format printers, so we will arrange the pieces so they can be printed individually and reassembled.

When uploading the magazine scans, you can use a host such as Mediafire or Megaupload. You can also e-mail them to me at merpantsu[at]myself.com if you'd like me to upload the items. Please note the dpi of the pattern sheets if you're including them.

Please use the following form if you would like to post the entry yourself, instead of having me post it:

A sample post can be seen here if you want to know what it should look like.

Mooks we need under here!Collapse )
03 June 2011 @ 03:59 pm
I am neither a professional seamstress, nor a scholar of Japanese. If any of my translations or instructions are incorrect, or you have a general suggestion or question for this article, don't hesitate to comment!

General Japanese Pattern Notes and Guidelines

Basic Translations
Before you start, you may want to keep this guide from tenbinza open if you don't speak Japanese. It's rarely necessary to read the instructions thoroughly, but this guide is great for things that are vital, like working out the kinds of fabric used or figuring out which pattern pieces you'll need.

Japanese Sewing Translation Guide

General Notes on Pattern Sheets
Most patterns from the GLB and Alice Deco, along with some patterns from Gosu Rori, are printed on pattern sheets. As a warning, Japanese pattern sheets are horrible. In order to save paper, patterns are usually printed on top of one another. Even if you own the original magazine that the pattern came from, you're still going to have to trace the pattern onto some kind of paper. I find that butcher paper works best since it can be purchased cheaply and in large rolls, but use whatever works for you.

While the sheets may be intimidating at first, they're really not all that confusing. First, let's identify what you want to make. Then, look at the color the name is written in (for GLBs and Alice Deco mooks) or the number near the name (for Gosu Rori mooks)? Is the name of the item written in pink? Then I'll cut out all the pattern pieces with pink outlines. Is the pattern number 9? Look for all the pieces with the number 9 on them. The number of pieces to cut and places where you should sew the notions are also written on this pattern sheet; however, they're written on the actual magazine page with directions as well and it's usually a little easier to read them there.

General Seam Allowance Notes
Once thing to remember about patterns in any lolita pattern book, and Japanese patterns in general: they rarely include seam allowances. Leave 1/4"-1/2" (1-2 cms) of extra fabric around the edge of each pattern piece. That way, you'll have space to actually stitch the pieces together when you go to make your piece.

Interpreting Gosu Rori Patterns

This is one of the best resources I've seen for reading and interpreting Gosu Rori patterns, made by feorag .

Batty-Chan's Gosu Rori Pattern Guide

If you don't want to read it all the way through, here's a quick visual guide to interpreting Gosu Rori patterns. Click on the images to enlarge them.

Interpreting GLB Patterns

Since the Bible is not a purely sewing-focused magazine, it typically puts its patterns in writing so it can devote space to articles. There are rarely diagrams, but once you work out what the pattern pieces are it's simple to work out how to put them together. As for the order in which to assemble the garment, it's usually best to start by assembling the bodice, move on to assembling the skirt, and then stitch the two pieces together. If there's lace or trim on a seam, add it to said seam as you sew the two pieces together.

Here's an example with a simple pattern:

Usually, you can get a lot of clues from looking at the actual piece, but in this case the model's pretty clearly wearing the bloomers backwards. Oops. Other than that minor gaffe, you can get a pretty clear idea of what you're doing based on the close-ups and pattern pieces. For pieces, you have the frill, back, front, candy pocket, and candy frill. They're all labelled with a kanji (literally can't see which one, and the word I know for "cut" is not the same as this one. Help?) and "x2," which in this case means that you cut out two of that piece.

Now for the instructions. If you're blind and working from small scans, like I am here, or you just don't know Japanese, you can guess pretty easily. Here, you'd want to stitch your lace to all the pieces and stitch all four pieces of the candy pocket together, and attach the candy pocket to one of the back pieces. Then, you'd stitch the front left piece to the back left piece, and the front right piece to the back right piece. Then attach the frill to each half at the place noted on the pattern, and stich the bias tape over the seam. Stitch along the top and bottom so it forms a little channel. Then, stitch up the center seam. Add elastic to one leg and stitch up the side seam. Fold down the top, stitch, and again make a channel with bias tape. Add the elastic to this channel and the remaining leg channel, stitch the side seam shut, and you're done.

If you're new to sewing, you may want to enlist the help of someone who either speaks Japanese well or has experience in dressmaking. They can help you figure out what pattern pieces are for and where they go, even if you don't understand how the directions work.

Unlike Gosu Rori, patterns in the GLB are not drafted- they have to be traced from a pattern sheet. If you don't have the pattern sheet, you can download and enlarge one from our gallery, or try your hand at enlarging them yourself.

Interpreting Alice Deco Patterns

For the most part, Alice Deco patterns look and work just like GLB patterns: They're traced from a pattern sheet and don't usually include diagrams.